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How To Soften Leather

12 April 2024

At The Leather Colour Doctor, we share your passion for the feeling of beautifully supple leather!

Sadly, however, our favourite leather jackets, bags, and shoes can sometimes become stiff and dry over time, and it’s easy to assume that your prized leather item is ruined forever.

Before you give up and discard your leather goods, the Leather Colour Doctor has some excellent news: You can rescue your favourite jacket, boots, or handbag!

With a few simple techniques, you can breathe new life into your beloved leather items and restore that delightful suppleness.

Soften Leather

Understanding Leather

Leather, much like our own skin, is a natural material - animal hide. And just like us, it can suffer from dryness over time. This can be thanks to the harsh rays of the sun, excessive heat, or even exposure to strong chemicals.

However, with proper care and attention, you can replenish the natural oils that keep your leather supple and flexible. Just like giving your own skin a good moisturising treat, conditioning your leather properly restores its natural elasticity and brings it back to life.

With many years of experience working with and caring for leather, we understand this material better than most. We'd love to share the benefits of our knowledge and experience with you to keep your leather goods looking and feeling like new!

Understanding Leather

How Do You Soften Hard Leather? 

Stiff leather is a sad sight to behold; your once supple leather shoes, bag, or jacket feels tough and has lost its appeal.

How do you rescue it? Well, it all depends on how hard the leather has become and the type of leather involved.

While there are countless remedies floating around, many should be avoided at all costs, as you will risk damaging your leather items beyond repair!

We'll examine these later, but first, let's explore the sensible and effective remedies, starting with the very best option.


Discover: How To Soften Leather Jackets

Soften Hard Leather

Leather Conditioners

Investing in a high-quality leather conditioner is the number-one solution if you want to soften leather.

However, there are several factors to keep in mind:

Do Your Research 

Not all leather conditioners are equal. Look for reputable brands known for their leather care products. Consider browsing online reviews or consulting a leather care specialist at a department store for recommendations. 

In fact, you’d have to go a long way to find a match for our own leather conditioner, which you can find on the Leather Colour Doctor website.

It's easy to apply, provides a protective layer against stains and UV rays, and creates a supple, non-greasy feel. And the unique leather-scented cream restores that wonderful new leather smell!

Choose The Right Conditioner

Different leather types have unique needs. When it comes to conditioning, using the wrong product can be disastrous. Here's why matching the conditioner to your leather type is crucial: 

  • Understanding Leather Variations - Leather comes in a variety of finishes and treatments, each with its own characteristics. For example, full-grain leather is known for its natural beauty and durability, while suede has a soft, napped texture. These differences require specific conditioners formulated to address their unique properties. We'll look into this in more detail in a moment.
  • Tailored Ingredients - Some conditioners contain waxes or oils that are ideal for smooth-finished leather, providing a protective sheen and restoring suppleness. However, these same ingredients can clog the pores of suede, leading to a matted appearance and loss of that luxurious softness. Conversely, a conditioner designed for suede might not offer enough protection for a full-grain leather jacket exposed to the elements. 
  • Avoiding Unwanted Effects - Using the wrong conditioner can have several negative consequences. It can cause discolouration, especially with lighter-coloured leathers. Additionally, some conditioners might not penetrate the leather effectively, leaving it dry and susceptible to cracking. In the worst-case scenario, the wrong product could break down the leather's natural oils, leading to permanent damage and a shortened lifespan for your beloved leather goods. 

However, identifying your leather type is often quite straightforward. Here are a few helpful tips: 

Examine The Label 

Many leather products, especially clothing and bags, will have a care label attached. This label often specifies the type of leather used and may even recommend a specific cleaning or conditioning product. 

Visual Inspection 

Smooth-finished leather will have a consistent, glossy appearance. Full-grain leather will also have a smooth surface, but it may exhibit natural markings and variations in colour. Suede has a soft, fuzzy texture that feels like velvet to the touch. 

Consult A Professional! 

If you're unsure about your leather type, don't hesitate to seek help from a leather care specialist, like the Leather Colour Doctor.  

Applying Leather Conditioners

Once you are sure you have the right conditioner, it's wise to test it on an inconspicuous spot on the leather, like the inside of a seam or a hidden flap on a bag. This allows you to check for any discolouration or adverse reactions before applying it to the entire surface. 

If there is no unwanted reaction, you can go ahead and apply the conditioner to the rest of the leather surface. Apply a thin, pea-sized amount of conditioner to a clean, soft cloth. Remember - a little goes a long way, and over-application can leave the leather greasy or sticky. 

Use circular motions to gently rub the conditioner into the leather. This ensures even coverage and helps the product penetrate the material. 

Once you've covered the entire surface, leave it for a few minutes and let the leather absorb the conditioner. Then, take a second soft, clean cloth and buff the leather gently. This removes any excess conditioner that might leave a residue or make the leather look greasy. 

And now, you should start to see the amazing results! Repeat this process regularly*, and there's no reason why your leather goods shouldn't last for many, many years.

*Once every three months for leather bags and shoes, and maybe once or twice a year for leather furniture.

Applying Leather Conditioners

How To Soften Leather With Natural Oils

While leather conditioner is (in our opinion) the best option for keeping leather items soft, you might want to explore other options, such as natural oils.

This method has been used for centuries by leatherworkers and everyday folks alike to treat hardened leather, but you need to exercise caution when choosing and applying them.

Here's the Leather Colour Doctor's take on this remedy:

Which Oils Are Best?

Natural oils like mink oil and neatsfoot oil can penetrate deep into the leather fibres. This allows them to replenish lost oils and moisture, restoring the leather's natural suppleness and pliability. It also prevents cracks and extends its lifespan. Additionally, some oils can provide a mild water-repellent barrier. 

Think of it as giving your leather a good drink after a long period of thirst!

This not only improves the comfort of your leather goods but also helps to prevent cracking, which can occur with stiff leather. 

If you have forgotten leather clothing or a well-worn pair of boots tucked away in the closet, natural oils can be a lifesaver. These oils can help to revive neglected leather, bringing back its softness and shine. It's like giving your leather a second chance! 

However, it's important to remember that these oils, while effective, require a careful approach.

Soften Leather With Natural Oils

Testing Is Key! 

Before applying any natural oil to your entire leather item, always conduct a patch test in an inconspicuous area, like the inside of a seam or a hidden flap on a bag. This allows you to observe how the leather reacts to the oil. Watch out for any signs of darkening, discolouration, or excessive greasiness. 

Less Is More 

Natural oils are potent. Applying too much can leave the leather greasy and attract dirt. Start with a pea-sized amount of oil applied to a soft cloth. Buff the oil gently into the leather using circular motions to ensure even coverage. 

The Dangers Of Over-Oiling 

Over-saturation with oil can damage the leather. Excess oil can break down the leather fibres, making them weak and susceptible to tearing. It can also clog the leather's pores, preventing it from absorbing moisture properly and leading to dryness in the long run. 

What About Jojoba, Coconut, Or Olive Oil?

These oils are often touted as being suitable, especially to soften leather gloves, and, to some degree, this is true. However, while they will probably soften the leather, there are several drawbacks:

  • Olive oil can penetrate leather unevenly, leading to splotchy darkening and an unattractive appearance. It can also leave a greasy and sticky surface, attracting dirt and dust that worsens the problem. Finally, it doesn't offer the same level of deep conditioning as professional leather conditioners.
  • Coconut oil can be difficult to apply evenly, resulting in a patchy appearance. Like olive oil, it can also leave the surface feeling sticky and greasy. While it will keep the leather soft in the short term, it tends to dry it out over time, resulting in cracking and splitting.
  • Jojoba oil is often touted as a natural alternative to other leather conditioners because, chemically, it's closer to the sebum (natural oil) produced by our skin. In theory, this could mean it conditions the leather in a similar way. However, the long-term effects aren't known, and the results are rarely as good as a top-brand leather softener or conditioner.

How To Soften Leather With Water

This method is for very mild cases of stiff, dry leather only!

You'll need a spray bottle for this, and it's best to buy one, especially for the job. Recycling an old one is fine, but you have to be absolutely certain that no residue remains from whatever was originally in the bottle.

Do not use tap water, as this will leave mineral deposits that will stain the leather surface. Instead, invest in distilled water and spray a small amount onto the stiff leather. Use a soft clean cloth (microfibre, ideally) or soft brush to wipe it down.

Avoid saturating the surface, and leave the item to dry naturally away from direct heat.

Understanding The Different Types Of Leather

When exploring ways to soften leather, it's vital that you take note of the different types of leather available, and identify which type you are dealing with.

Here's a list of the most popular types of leather and the best methods of softening them...

Full-Grain Leather 

The king of leathers, known for its durability and beautiful grain. Always use a leather conditioner specifically designed for full-grain leather. Mink oil or neat foot oil can also work well, but be very sparing as they can darken the leather slightly. 

Full Grain Leather

Top-Grain Leather 

Similar to full-grain but with a more uniform appearance due to a buffed top layer. A good leather conditioner is ideal. Avoid using too much oil, as the buffed surface might not absorb it well. 

Top Grain Leather

Suede And Nubuck 

These leathers have a soft, napped finish. Avoid conditioners and oils altogether, as they can damage the nap. Instead, use a suede brush to gently lift the nap and restore its softness. You can also try a suede eraser for stubborn marks. 

Vegetable-Tanned Leather 

Tanned with natural ingredients, this leather often has a more rustic look. A good leather balm or conditioner formulated for vegetable-tanned leather is a great choice. You can also try a light application of Neat's foot oil, but remember to test first, as it can darken the leather. 

Vegetable Tanned Leather

Patent Leather 

This shiny, coated leather doesn't require softening. However, to maintain its shine, you can use a special leather cleaner or shoe polish.

Patent Leather

Corrected Grain Leather

This is genuine leather that has undergone some modification to achieve a more uniform look. The natural surface imperfections like scars, scratches, or insect bites are sanded or buffed away. An artificial grain pattern may then be embossed onto the surface to create a smoother, more consistent appearance.

To make this leather softer, adopt the same approach as you would with top-grain leather.

Bonded Leather

Bonded leather is not technically real leather. It's a manufactured material made from leather scraps, fibres, and other materials that are fused together with a polyurethane adhesive. A top layer with an artificial grain pattern is then applied to resemble genuine leather.

Because of this structure, it doesn't respond well to traditional methods of softening leather, so it's best to avoid using them. Wipe it down with a damp cloth, but be sure to dry it off.

Bonded Leather

Rawhide Leather

Rawhide leather is not quite leather in the traditional sense. It's a much simpler material made from animal skin that hasn't undergone the full tanning process.

This type of leather is designed to be stiff; softening it may prevent it from functioning as it should.

Rawhide Leather

Treating 'Exotic' Leather

While most leather items are made from bovine leather (essentially cow skin), there are other more unusual examples, such as deerskin leather, lambskin leather, goatskin leather, buffalo leather, and so on.

These different types have their own unique properties; lambskin leather jackets are popular because of their soft, luxurious feel, while cowhide leather is more commonly used for furniture due to its robust nature.

Many of these more exotic examples are premium items and usually come with care instructions and warranties or guarantees. It's essential to follow these instructions to the letter or you risk damaging the item and voiding the warranty.

If in doubt, use our leather conditioner!

Explore: How To Tell If Leather Is Real

Treating Exotic Leather

A Few Extra Tips

While leather is a durable and versatile material, it needs proper care if you want it to last.

Using a good quality leather conditioner is the best option, but there are a few other ways to keep it looking great and feeling supple.

Gentle Heat

For stubborn stiffness, run a hair dryer over the surface, but take care not to apply direct heat for too long, and make sure it is switched to a low setting! Overheating leather will dry it out even further and could cause it to split and crack. You could even scorch the surface if you're not careful.

Never put leather garments or leather shoes in a dryer, as this will most probably ruin them!

The Benefits Of Movement

Leather clothing was made to be worn. When it is static, it tends to dry out and harden. And as some of you may know, a stiff leather garment is not comfortable to wear!

After applying a conditioner, gently stretch and flex the leather to help it absorb the product and become more pliable. If you don't plan to wear it for a while, remember to get it out every few weeks, manipulate it, and maybe even add some more leather conditioner.

Avoid Direct Sunlight

Where possible, keep your leather goods out of the sun. Leather furniture will fade and dry out due to the UV rays. Just like your own skin, if leather spends too long in the sun, the UV rays will damage the surface.

If your furniture is situated near windows and sunlight is unavoidable, consider investing in blinds, voile, or curtains that will shield it from the sun.

Alternatively, drape a throw or blanket over the surface during daylight hours, and apply a leather conditioner once or twice a year.

How To Soften Stiff Leather Shoes

If the stiff leather isn't too bad, you could try stuffing leather boots or shoes with crumpled newspaper and leaving them overnight. This will absorb any moisture and stretch out the material slightly, making it more supple.

Still, it's best to add a conditioner afterward.

Check out: How To Stop Leather Shoes Squeaking

Soften Stiff Leather Shoes

Remedies To Avoid!

As promised, here are some methods that you should never consider when you want to soften stiff leather. You may be surprised by some of these, as countless websites (even supposed leather experts!) recommend them.

However, take it from the Leather Colour Doctor, these are the very best ways to ruin your leather accessories.

Please, if you value your leather goods, do not use these methods:

Heavy Oils (Vegetable Oil, Mineral Oil) 

These oils may seem like a natural solution, but they're simply too heavy for leather. They can penetrate unevenly, causing unsightly darkening and splotches. Worse yet, they leave the leather feeling greasy and sticky, attracting dirt and dust like a magnet. This can make your once-loved leather item look dull and worn.

Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol, Hairspray) 

While alcohol might seem like a quick way to break down stiffness, it's a recipe for disaster. Alcohol acts as a drying agent, further stiffening the leather and accelerating the formation of cracks. Imagine your favourite leather jacket becoming like a piece of cardboard – not a pleasant thought! 

Heat Sources (Hair Dryer, Direct Sunlight) 

A gentle touch of warmth can sometimes help soften leather, but be very cautious. Excessive heat from a hairdryer or direct sunlight is extremely detrimental. It can dry out the leather, making it brittle and prone to cracking. Think of a roast in the oven – it starts out supple but becomes tough and dry with too much heat. The same principle applies to leather. 

Harsh Soaps And Detergents

These cleaning products are formulated to cut through dirt and grime, but they're far too harsh for leather. They can strip away the natural leather oils, leaving it dry and vulnerable to further damage. Imagine your hands after washing them with strong soap – dry, tight, and uncomfortable. That's what harsh soaps can do to your leather. 

Vinegar 

Vinegar's acidic nature can break down the leather's natural oil and fibres, leading to drying, cracking, and overall weakening of the leather. Imagine using vinegar on your hands - it would leave them dry and irritated, and that's exactly what can happen to your leather goods. It also causes fading, stripping away the natural shine to leave it looking lifeless.  

Saddle Soap

Saddle soap is primarily designed for cleaning leather. It helps remove dirt, grime, and sweat build-up, which can contribute to stiffness. By cleaning the leather, saddle soap can indirectly make it feel softer and more supple.

However, it has a drying effect that could increase the stiffness if a leather conditioner is not applied immediately.

Petroleum Jelly 

We’re often asked, "Does Vaseline soften leather?" The answer is, maybe, but you should still never use it! Like heavy oils, petroleum jelly can leave the leather greasy and attract dirt. 

If you're unsure about a particular method, it's always best to err on the side of caution and stick with a high-quality leather conditioner specifically formulated for your leather type. 

How To Soften Leather - The Last Word

Leather is a luxury item that millions of us enjoy and appreciate, and it deserves the best care. After all, you've made an investment when buying that leather accessory, so why wouldn't you take the time to look after it properly?

Our best advice is that old leather will greatly benefit from a top-grade leather conditioner, and you'll find this, along with a fantastic range of leather care products, on our website.

If you're unsure about the type of leather you have or the best approach to softening it, don't hesitate to contact The Leather Colour Doctor. Our experts are here to help you keep your leather looking and feeling its best! 

With a little love and care, you can bring your favourite leather items back to life. So, put these tips into practice and enjoy the luxurious comfort of softened leather! 

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